Classic car parts you can no longer buy
For a car from the 1960s or 70s, mechanical parts are often still available through clubs and specialists, while small plastic details are gone completely. That applies to knobs, air vents, bulb holders, trim clips, handle details and covers. The same goes for older mopeds, snowmobiles and boats, where the manufacturer may no longer exist. Even cars from the 1990s and 2000s can lack small plastic parts, because manufacturers only stock parts for a limited time. A cracked parcel shelf bracket or a broken door card clip can be impossible to buy separately.
Used parts can sometimes be found, but often in as poor a condition as your own. Once the part is modelled in CAD, it can be made again in whatever quantity is needed. The file can also be shared with others in the club, so more vehicles of the same model get a new lease of life. The model is kept, and a new batch can be ordered without measuring the part again.
Recreating car parts with the right appearance
In a restoration it is not enough for the part to fit – it also has to look right. We measure the original, often a broken one, and photograph it against a grid to capture curves and edges. A grained surface texture cannot be reproduced directly in a print, but a smooth surface can be sanded and painted. For larger runs the part can be designed for injection moulding with a textured tool surface.
If the original is missing entirely, we can work from pictures in workshop manuals, parts catalogues or photos of another car, provided at least one dimension is known. Accuracy is lower in that case, and we always make a test part before anything is made in larger numbers. We describe how measuring and interpretation work under reverse engineering.
Mirrored parts for the left and right side are made from the same model. We still check both sides of the vehicle, because older cars are not always exactly symmetrical. We do not recreate logos or badge lettering; instead we leave a smooth surface where the original emblem can be refitted.
Materials that withstand heat, sun and vibration
The interior of a car parked in the sun gets very hot. The dashboard can reach 80–90 °C on a summer day, and PLA softens at around 55–60 °C. We therefore use ASA or ABS for interior details, and carbon-fibre-reinforced PA or PC for parts that both get hot and carry loads.
Outdoors and on boats, UV resistance is at least as important. ASA keeps its colour and strength in sunlight far better than PETG and ABS. PA absorbs moisture and changes size slightly, which we allow for in the fits. In the engine bay, the distance to the engine and exhaust decides: close to hot parts we recommend metal. We compare the materials in the [[g_3dutskrift|guide to 3D printing materials]].
Colour affects temperature. A black part in direct sun gets noticeably hotter than a light grey one, and the difference can decide whether a part keeps its shape. We therefore choose the material for the colour the part will have, not just for where it sits.
What we do not design for printing
Parts that affect road safety – brakes, steering, suspension, seat belt anchorages and fuel systems – we do not design for 3D printing. They need materials, manufacturing and testing that a printed plastic part cannot provide. In some cases we can produce a drawing for manufacture in metal, but responsibility for the part passing the roadworthiness test (MOT or equivalent) lies with the vehicle owner.
The same caution applies to boats: through-hull fittings below the waterline and parts of the fuel system must follow the boat manufacturer's instructions and the applicable rules. Most of what is missing in a restoration, though, is interior trim, controls and cosmetic details, and there a printed part is often an excellent alternative. Questions about what may be modified on a registered vehicle are answered by the inspection authority. We are happy to produce documentation but do not judge whether a modification is permitted.
Accessories and your own solutions
Besides spare parts, we design accessories: mounts for extra gauges, phone and GPS holders that fit the air vent, cable grommets, speaker rings and holders for the motorhome. We design them against existing hole patterns and outlines, so nothing needs drilling unless it is necessary. Holders for the air vent are designed with clamps that do not damage the vanes, and mounts for extra gauges are matched to standard diameters such as 52 mm.
Vibration is a common problem in vehicles. Screw joints in plastic therefore get threaded inserts and a lock washer, and snap fits are sized with a margin. For mopeds and motorcycles we often design the bracket in sheet steel or aluminium if it sits on the frame. More examples of how we produce individual parts are under spare parts without drawings.
Fittings and holders for boats are designed with salt water in mind. Metal parts in the design should be acid-resistant stainless steel, and the plastic is chosen for UV resistance. ASA and some PA grades do well on deck, while PLA and PETG tolerate sun and heat less well.
Materials for vehicle parts – guide values
| Material | Heat resistance and use (guide value) |
|---|---|
| PLA | softens at approx. 55–60 °C – unsuitable in a car |
| PETG | approx. 70–75 °C – parts in the shade, not on the dashboard |
| ABS | approx. 90–100 °C – interior, needs UV protection outdoors |
| ASA | approx. 90–100 °C – interior and exterior parts, good UV resistance |
| PC | approx. 110–130 °C – hot and loaded parts |
| PA-CF (carbon-fibre-reinforced PA) | often above 100 °C – brackets and covers, absorbs moisture |
| TPU | flexible parts: seals, dampers and edge trims |
| Metal (aluminium, steel) | near the engine and exhaust, and all load-bearing parts |
Approximate softening temperatures for printed parts; they vary between brands. Loaded parts should have a good margin below the maximum temperature.
What we need from you
- The original part or a broken one
- Photos from several angles with a ruler or calliper in the picture
- Make, model and year of the vehicle
- Where the part sits: cabin, boot, engine bay, exterior or on the boat
- Preferred colour and finish – original appearance or function first
- Pictures from a workshop manual or parts catalogue if the original is missing
- Quantity, for example if club members want the same part
Typical projects
- Dashboard air vent
- Control knobs for heater and radio
- Trim clips and moulding holders
- Bulb holder and lamp bracket
- Cover for the rear-view mirror mount
- Handle detail for a door or glovebox
- Side cover for a moped
- Gauge mount for a snowmobile
- Fittings and cable grommet for a boat
- Holders and storage for a motorhome
What affects price and lead time
- How faithfully the appearance must be recreated
- Whether the original is available to measure
- Complex shapes with double-curved surfaces
- Number of test parts before the fit is approved
- Choice of material and any finishing
- Number of variants, for example left and right
What you get
- 3D model in STEP and STL or 3MF
- Material recommendation based on heat, UV light and load
- Mirrored variant for the left and right side
- Test part for fit (optional)
- Finished parts in ASA, PC or PA-CF (optional)
- Drawing for a metal workshop if needed
Frequently asked questions
Can you make parts that survive the sun on the dashboard?
Yes, with the right material. We use ASA or PC, which withstand much higher temperatures than PLA and PETG. Dark parts get hotter than light ones, so colour matters too.
Can a 3D-printed part look like the original?
With sanding, filler and paint it can come very close. A grained plastic surface cannot be reproduced directly in a print. For larger runs the part can be designed for injection moulding with a textured tool surface.
Can you make parts for the engine bay?
Parts some distance from the engine and exhaust can be made in PA-CF or PC. Close to hot parts, and for anything load-bearing, we recommend metal, and we then draw the part for a workshop.
Do you make brake parts or other safety parts?
No, not for 3D printing. Parts that affect road safety require materials and testing that a printed part cannot provide.
Is a photo enough to model the part?
For simple parts, a photo straight from the front with a known dimension in the same plane is often enough. The more dimensions and angles we get, the better the fit.
May I share the file with others in the club?
Yes. You own the files once the job is paid for and can share them as you wish.